# 1. Leave stock cover to insure dryness.

# 2. Lay your JETTRIM cover over the seat.

# 3. Find the center point in front of your seat. Match it to the center of your seat cover. Using your staple gun, apply 4 to 5 staples into what is called the "listing". The listing simply is the material that runs around the whole outside perimeter of you seat cover and where your staples sre applied.

# 4. Move to the front corners of your seat and staple to secure each corner while keeping in mind the stretch factor.

# 5. Move to the rear of your seat and stretch your seat cover over the back. Stretching is very important, so take your time to insure proper installation.

# 6. After you have properly stretched your seat cover, secure it by stapling the center then the rear corners of your seat cover.

# 7. Move back to the front of your seat again, focusing on the wings (bottom front part of your seat). Stretch evenly from side to side and secure with staples.

# 8. Secure all of your excess material found in all corners. Just like wrapping a present.

# 9. Once all the corners are secure, everything else, with minimal stretching will fall into place.

# 10. Don't be afraid to use extra staples to secure your seat cover.

# 11. Enjoy your new JETTRIM seat cover!

# Tools and supplies needed - paint brush, contact cement, and super glue.

# 1. Remove stock side mats.

# 2. Leave bottom mat for extra padding and comfort. Be sure it is securely glued. Trim old mat away from pump area or from where bumper was removed so new mat will adhease properly to hull.

# 3. Starting with sides first, apply glue to the sides of the hull and to the back side of mat. Set top rear corners first. Lay mat along top working towards front of ski. After setting top, stretch sides of mat into tray area. Starting with rear corner first. Then work your way to front stretching mat into place.

# 4. Apply glue to bottom mat and tray area. Set front corners first then stretch to rear of tray. Stretch side to side if needed for proper fit.

# 5. Apply super glue by lifting edge of mat and running a small bead down edge of hull, then press for a few seconds.

Mat Cleaning Instructions

Ordinary dirt can be removed by washing with warm water and mild soap such as Ivory dish soap. Use a soft bristle brush if needed.

Oil stains can usually be removed with kerosene lighter fluid. Then clean with mild soap.

Rust can be removed with Comet or Ajax. Use soft bristle brush if needed.

1. Basically you will be applying side mats first starting with the top outside edge first, then the bottom mat. First hold the side mats into place and make some guide marks on the top corners and center, then align those marks when installing.

2. Apply contact cement to bottom side of JETTRIM side mats and to hull. Clean around edges.

3. Carefully apply a small bead of super glue along top edge of rail where edge of mat will lay. Install only top outside edge first, corner to corner, aligning your marks. Apply even pressure along top edge. Allow glue to dry 2-3 minutes before continuing. Put as much super glue as possible an edge, just be careful it can ruin your new paint job if it runs down the side.

4. Now apply super glue down rear outside edge of gunnel and stretch JETTRIM side mat into place. All that's left is to stretch side mat down towards front. ALIGN ALL YOUR MARKS. Don't be afraid to stretch JETTRIM mats, they are designed to stretch tight into place. It will not tear. It will last and wear better if stretched tight into place. Use heat if needed.

5. Install rear kicker if desired. We cut a V shape in the middle to allow stock bow eye to be re-installed. You will need an extra long bow eye otherwise.

6. Apply contact cement to JETTRIM slotted bottom mat and to hull. Extra glue on bottom mat is recommended. First align front corners and along bottom of dash perfectly and stick down. Stand in the back and stretch towards the rear corners. Stretch side to side as well for exact fit. Trim any excess off rear and re-install rear bumper. Be very careful cutting hole for bow eye. Cut hole very accurately. Smaller than needed then force bow eye in it. For best results strike bottom mat with a rubber mallet in the slots, (the low area), it helps with contour and adhesion. You can see the grooves from the OEM mat in bottom slots of the JETTRIM mat when done correctly.

7. Install custom JETTRIM dash (optional).

8. No waiting necessary, go ride!

1. It's simple, you will start by carefully removing OEM side gunnels. Try to sell them on EBAY, you could easily make $50.00 - $100.00 of your money back. Remove OEM rubber side mats. DO NOT remove OEM bottom unless it is damaged, however, do be sure the OEM bottom mat is securely glued everywhere. Order JETTRIM under mat if needed.

2. Using a new size 3/16" drill, carefully remove both corner bumpers and the rear bumper that holds the bottom mat down. Remove OEM mat under plastic bumper so new mat can fit better. Less bulk under the bumper makes a cleaner install. Remove rear bow eye bushing.

3. Use same drill and carefully remove rivets holding the OEM rubber side gunnel pads and remove two phillips screws under each side mat. Remove OEM glue/foam off hull with race gas or thinner for a clean installation. Try not to damage OEM side gunnels when removing. Save them.

4. Carefully remove all the old rivets from everything, push old rivets into the holes on the hull gunnels then seal with duct tape or silicone to prevent any leakage.

5. Carefully install conversion sides with supplied rivets. We recommend using clear silicone to seal the outside edge to help secure it better. Apply bead along rubber seal under cap before installing. You want to prevent water from entering under rail cap. At high speeds water can enter and rip cap off. Improper installation can result in failure. JETTRIM does not warranty rails in this case. We also countersink 2 rivets under the mat on top of the rails (optional). This holds down top edge even better. Re-install corner bumpers.

Some models require the plastic front bumper to be trimmed. Using tin ships trim the bumper where it curves under the bond rail before installing.

If splash guard appears to hang down to far for your certain model just trim a half inch or so off the top and taylor it to your liking.

We suggest using extra glue and pop rivets for a secure fit. Make sure there is at least one rivet and gluee on ends of splash guard.

Tools needed: Power Drill, 3/16" Drill Bit, Tin Snips, 3/16" X 3/4" Pop Rivets, Rivet Gun, Screwdriver, Awl, Contact Cement, And Hot Glue.

The front bumper must be removed before the splash guard can be installed. In order to do this, first remove the four rivet caps. You can use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry out the rivet caps.

Use a 3/16" drill bit to drill out the four existing rivets that hold the front bumper in place.

Make sure all of the old rivets are removed.

Peel back the rub rail insert and drill out the first four rivets on each side of the hull. This will allow you to remove the rub rails partially. Around half way up the side.

Run the 3/16" drill bit through each of the holes. Be careful not to drill to far. You could drill through the hull of your craft.

Find and mark the exact center of the bow.

Mark the center of the top edge of the splash guard.

Align the two marks and drill 3/16" hole and install one pop rivet. Drill 1/4" from edge of splash guard.

Hold splash guard into place one side at a time and punch holes where the stock rivets went. Be sure that the holes are not to close to the edge of the splash guard, allow at least 1/4".

Apply glue to back side of splash guard.

Drill and install one pop rivet on each end of splash guard. Now the splash guard is glued securley to the bond rail with one pop rivet in the front center and at least one on each end. Two would not hurt.

Reattach the side rails using 3/16" pop rivets, and install the rub rail insert.

Reinstall front bumper and rivet caps.


Now it is time for a nice dry ride and test your installation.

The front bumper must be removed before the splash guard can be installed. In order to do this, first remove the four nuts behind the bumper. Then pry the bumper off with a small screwdriver.

Remove insert from rub rail about half way up each side.

Remove enough screws to detach bumper about half way up each side. Use a small screwdriver or gasket scraper to detach bumper.

Run the 3/16" drill bit through each of the holes. Be careful not to drill to far. You could drill through the hull of your craft.

Find and mark the exact center of the bow.

Mark the center of the top edge of the splash guard.

Align the two marks and drill 3/16" hole and install one pop rivet. Drill 1/4" from edge of splash guard and 1/4" from edge of bumper.

Hold splash guard into place one side at a time and punch holes where the stock rivets went. Be sure that the holes are not to close to the edge of the splash guard, allow at least 1/4".

Apply glue between splash guard and bumper.

Lay bumper down into place and install pop rivets in each of the original holes with the fender washers on the back side of the splash guard to securely hold in place.

Add at least one extra pop rivet on each end of splash guard. Two is better. Now the splash guard is glued securley to the back side of the bond rail. The side bumpers are back in place with pop rivet in all the original screw holes and at least one extra pop rivet on each end.

Reinstall side bumper insert. A rubber mallet works good.

Reinstall front bumper.

The front bumper must be removed before the splash guard can be installed. In order to do this, first remove the four nuts behind the bumper. Then pry the bumper off with a small screwdriver.


Remove insert from rub rail about half way up each side.

Remove enough screws to detach bumper about half way up each side. Use a small screwdriver or gasket scraper to detach bumper.

Run the 3/16" drill bit through each of the holes. Be careful not to drill to far. You could drill through the hull of your craft.

Find and mark the exact center of the bow.

Mark the center of the top edge of the splash guard.

Align the two marks and drill 1/16" hole and install one pop rivet. Drill 1/4" from edge of splash guard and 1/4" from edge of bumper.

Hold splash guard into place one side at a time and punch holes where the stock rivets went. Be sure that the holes are not to close to the edge of the splash guard, allow at least 1/4".

Apply glue on both sides of splash guard.

Lay bumper down into place and install pop rivets in each of the original holes.

Add at least one extra pop rivet on each end of splash guard. Two is better. Now the splash guard is glued securely to the back side of the bond rail. The side bumpers are back in place with pop rivet in all the original screw holes and at least one extra pop rivet on each end.

Reinstall side bumper insert. A rubber mallet works good.

Reinstall front bumper.

Tools needed: Power Drill, 3/16" Drill Bit, Tin Ships, 3/16" X 3/4" Pop Rivets, Rivet Gun, 3/16" Fender washers, Screwdriver, Awl, Contact Cement, And Hot Glue.

The front bumper must be removed before the splash guard can be installed. In order to do this, first remove the four nuts behind the bumper. Then pry the bumper off with a small screwdriver.

Remove insert from rub rail about half way up each side.

Remove enough screws to detach bumper about half way up each side. Use a small screwdriver or gasket scraper to detach bumper.

Run the 3/16" drill bit through each of the holes. Be careful not to drill to far. You could drill through the hull of your craft.

Find and mark the exact center of the bow.

Mark the center of the top edge of the splash guard.

Align the two marks and drill 3/16" hole and install one pop rivet. Drill 1/4" from edge of splash guard and 1/4" from edge of bumper.

Hold splash guard into place one side at a time and punch holes where the stock rivets went. Be sure that the holes are not to close to the edge of the splash guard, allow at least 1/4".

Apply glue between splash guard and bumper.

Lay bumper down into place and install pop rivets in each of the original holes with the fender washers on the back side of the splash guard to securely hold in place.

Add at least one extra pop rivet on each end of splash guard. Two is better. Now the splash guard is glued securley to the back side of the bond rail. The side bumpers are back in place with pop rivet in all the original screw holes and at least one extra pop rivet on each end.

Reinstall side bumper insert. A rubber mallet works good.

Reinstall front bumper.

Tools needed: Power Drill, 3/16" Drill Bit, Tin Ships, 3/16" X 3/4" Pop Rivets, Rivet Gun, 3/16" Fender washers, Screwdriver, Awl, Contact Cement, And Hot Glue.

The front bumper must be removed before the splash guard can be installed. In order to do this, first remove the four nuts behind the bumper. Then pry the bumper off with a small screwdriver.

Remove insert from rub rail about half way up each side.

Remove enough screws to detach bumper about half way up each side. Use a small screwdriver or gasket scraper to detach bumper.

Run the 3/16" drill bit through each of the holes. Be careful not to drill to far. You could drill through the hull of your craft.

Find and mark the exact center of the bow.

Mark the center of the top edge of the splash guard.

Align the two marks and drill 1/16" hole and install one pop rivet. Drill 1/4" from edge of splash guard and 1/4" from edge of bumper.

Hold splash guard into place one side at a time and punch holes where the stock rivets went. Be sure that the holes are not to close to the edge of the splash guard, allow at least 1/4".

Apply glue on both sides of splash guard.